I've played a round a bit more with this. I discovered a few things:
1) Recording on the L channel and playing back from the R channel was not helping! I'm surprised it worked at all but the cross-talk between the channels was enough to get a useable picture!
2) Dolby B doesn't seem to help with noise that much though it does reduce the sensitivity to recording level
3) Recording at a lower than normal level seems to help (around -8 to -6db) - I'm not sure that this might be a function of the VU meter being confused by the signal
4) Applying riaa equalisation helps
Applying RIAA (i.e. HF cut) before recording stops the high frequencies from overloading. This is to defeat the equalisation in the tape deck which we don't want here.
It is not necessary to apply the reverse when decoding but it does very slightly improve the quality.
5) Better synchronisation was needed in NBSC Player
- I've now implemented proper Frame and Line sync PLL's instead of the ad-hoc mess that was there before. It will now lock much better to dodgy signals.
6) Signal to noise is poor
I'm not sure why the signal to noise ratio is so poor and doesn't seem to alter much with recording level. I suspect that the rather simplistic FM demodulation scheme is more prone to noise than it needs to be.
7) I've got colour working
- It's very much at the expense of the the B&W bandwidth at the moment but I should be able to improve it considerably.
In this picture B&W is on an FM carrier at ~12kHz with ~2kHz deviation - the bandwidth of the actual modulating signal is ~6kHz
The colour signal is a down-converted "SECAM" signal (FM modulated carrier with alternate lines carrying B-Y and R-Y signals) this has a band width of ~1.5kHz the FM is centred on 3kHz
Real life pictures are better
The graininess and colour errors tend to cancel out over several frames making actual "off air" pictures seem better than a screen capture.
There's still some real improvements to be made. Synchronisation is poor, especially frame, though it is good enough to get a fairly reliable lock. I'm going to depart from the club standard I think and go for a more robust "real" half-line frame sync pulse