Moderators: Dave Moll, Andrew Davie, Steve Anderson
Panrock wrote:There's a 'gain' pot in the middle of the resistor chain too. The best setting seems to be at about ¾ travel. Over that and you tend to get 'bleaching' on whites. I still haven't really learned how to drive it though. Steve
Panrock wrote:If you can figure out a way to make an LM338K ultra-low in impedance for reducing the chunks being taken out of the motor supply, let me know. Steve
Panrock wrote:(EDIT - just done it. It's dead steady at 1015v under all conditions.) Steve
Panrock wrote:It's a shame the hash on the camera pulses isn't always there - makes it hard to trace. Steve
Panrock wrote:Talk about dedication... thanks Steve, but it has been worth it. Steve O
Steve Anderson wrote:Panrock wrote:There's a 'gain' pot in the middle of the resistor chain too. The best setting seems to be at about ¾ travel. Over that and you tend to get 'bleaching' on whites. I still haven't really learned how to drive it though. Steve
Reading through the Hamamatsu data I posted here a few days ago they don't seem to be that keen on this method of gain control, see their page 99 and read between the lines. I would dispense with this pot and keep the resistive divider equal on all stages. The implication being that gain control is better achieved in the semiconductor or optical stages.
Panrock wrote:I noticed this is only present when the red channel in the camera is turned well up. The other channels don't cause this. The red picture is normal. Steve
Panrock wrote:Then I'll check the first 80-line disc for quality in the monitor, on a signal generator source. Steve
Panrock wrote:There seems to be a problem photographing the picture that I didn't have before. However, to the eye, the pictures are much better (if a little bright!), sharper, more subtle, with lovely flat black level. Steve
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