Thanks All for the advice and encouragement, as always it is appreciated!
Steve,
thanks for the encouragement. The brightness is spot on, I can get far more by upping the g2 voltage without losing focus. It's cranked down at the moment though as my video amp only gives a few volts of drive could do with about a 30V supply for that part...(should have used split rails!). However its still perfectly viewable in a well lit room though. If I ever use this for 405/525/625 I may up the EHT however as the focus is not quite as tight as the original set's but more than enough to show up details at >16kHz in the picture.
Graham,
Thanks for the circuit plenty to think about there.
I can't say I fully understand the line drive circuit but will give it some more careful study later and may well be back with more questions later!
I'd thought about the idea of a counter but am trying to keep the parts count down at the moment. I may use the idea later though in an add-on sync stabaliser. Though I'll probably use a uController and try and do some fancy auto-detection of the standard being used and re-insert syncs, not entirely sure yet, might even try and make it a standards converter with frame store...
12.5Hz certainly is a bit flickery it has to be said, but for now I'll stick with the "standard" as I'm really trying to try out the spot-wobble ideas so its nice to be able to compare like with like.
What frequency did you use for the spot wobble? And did the square wave work or did it give the effect of double lines (thats what I get when I add a square wave wobble!). The main problem I've got with the spot wobble at the moment is that the error amplifier I've built doesn't pass high frequencies very well so I have to use a low frequency which means the wobble is visible (though it looks fine on photos!)
Klaas,
The tube I've got seems a bit odd in many respects not least that the frame coils were three thick wires in parallel giving about 3.4R whereas the line seems to be a single winding (unless there is something funny going on inside the yoke) with a lower resistance. Trouble is its all quite small and covered in lots of glue....I will probably try and undo some of this tonight and see what is actually going on. Also for some reason my picture is rotated and I can't quite work out why - the waveforms all look ok!
I will still try and put the windings in series if possible, though the trouble with that is I may want this to be a 405/525/625 monitor as well in which case the coils will need switching as well as everything else....I may need more wafers on my big standards switch!
Cheers
Dom
PS: I still can't work out how the little TV managed to make all this work with small frame drive transistos with no heatsinks - I'm using power ones with big washers as heatsinks and I still keep getting burnt fingers!