FlyMario wrote:So I found a web page that would let me "translate to english" the specifications for my Russian tube. The site is http://zapadpribor.com/5lo38i/
Here is yet another page ... http://www.cfp-radio.com/realisations/r ... es-01.html
It can be translated as well so that is nice.
Its good your looking at the Data that's something you have to do as your doing what gos where ....as you see the electostatic tubes are touch harder to understand to power them up .
As you see there's a range minimum to maximum operating voltage range ...so you would not run it at maximum voltages again a bit like the goldilocks zone where the normal operating voltage should be ...notice the high negative and lower positive voltages..in schematic below
I am no expert at these things but i do know now thank's to Steve Andersons help what not to do ..
I have the feeling you want to get this one going ...i really suggest you read all the mistakes i made on the my 3BP1 tube which ended up as the Anderson monitor...it pretty much can be used for a lot of these types of tubes but powered to your tubes operating range .
So at the Start i was just looking around like you how to power the thing so a few pages in i Started to make Steve's circuits.
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It has the tube pinout. Some words on it are obvious and others not. The X and Y's must be where you aim the beam. Let me guess that heizung is the heater since I know that the heater takes 6.33v. Pin 4 and 10 must be to focus... Oh god... are the anode and cathode holding 1000v. wow. I think I read somewhere there is a min and max... Sometimes the specs seem to contradict each other.
Focus takes 138v to 300v? now I am confused. Pin 10 must not have anything to do with focus. whatever 10 is needs -30v to -90v .
So now I see that 10 must be brightness. puzzled by that voltage.
My tube's negative is at about the 1300 v or so range from memory ,with Steve's voltage multiplier i was tacking on sections to get the correct or close voltage here ...you have to really be safe making testing that ..if you want to touch some thing here touch it with the meter better it die than you ...i don't want to put you off you just have to think safety first ...keep your hands away from it till your 100% sure there's no high voltages in the capacitors.
you will see the power supplies in the links
That gives you an idea of my 3bp1 tube the positive and negative voltages to the tube this was used as a test circuit , the voltage control on the optocoupler to control the beam ,you should have working scanning and deflection circuits ,with just a raster dot you could burn the screen ..
Note that the positive and negative readings are as shown from ground and from ov cathode ....that is not ground thus the 2 readings .
Don't worry to much yet just read the build a lot of the questions i asked too
CRT tubes sure love different voltages. It says 6.3vac... why? A heater doesn't mind dc right? Isn't that just a element that heats up the tube?
i used dc on the magnetic tubes heater but voltage regulated ,6.3v Ac on the Anderson monitors just use a little 6,3 volt transformer..so yes you can use say a 5 volt dc supply and test your tube the heater should slowly light up .
This is going to be so much fun. Hope I am not too annoying.
Pete
If you do copy the 32 line Anderson monitor only problem i had with a different tube was the 75 volt zener that and a resistor i recall i think had to be changed on the A for Andrew monitor ..again more help from Steve there .
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