Moderators: Dave Moll, Steve Anderson
Steve Anderson wrote:My wife, and indeed all of her family, although of Thai birth and nationality, they have a majority Chinese blood-line. They are quite ashamed at the quality of products coming out of their heritage homeland. With something like clothing you can see while at the market if it's any good or not. With anything you plug-in - it may work at the shop, until you get it home. Try taking it back two hours later - don't bother.
If it's made in China it's likely to be crap. Period.
A couple of days ago I bought some clutch & brake fluid for our old car, it said, "Made in the UK", I was proud and full of confidence. I didn't realise that we still made anything in the UK. The '140' sticker is the price in Thai Baht, about GBP 2.50. It works fine, but I wonder why the brake reservior needs topping up so soon after a brake-pad replacement. Cheap Chinese copy brake-pads?
Steve A.
Klaas Robers wrote:Harry, in principle there should be no difference in the output voltages between connecting the 9V to the 9V and connecting the 18V to the 18 V. The differences between the two output voltages can only be the difference in internal resistances and other losses of the two transformers.
What you could do is to connect the 18V of the second transformer to the 9V of the first transformer. Then you may expect output voltages about half the value of 18 - 18.
Do you have a bleeder resistor at the output? That is advisable, because in this situation, once powered up, the high voltage will remain at the output for a quite long time. The bleeder resistor will discharge the charged capacitors in say half a minute and then the output is safe. In operation, the photomultiplier has the chain of resistors that may function as a bleeder, but now you have a separate power supply you should protect yourself from unwanted high voltages shock.
Klaas Robers wrote:Harry, if you read back Steve's PMT experiments then you first should keep the LED off. Then you are looking at the "dark current". This is rather high in the beginning and decreasing in the first 100 hours that you have the PMT running in the dark. It is as if you are looking at the remains of all the light that the PMT has seen while it was not used.
Then, when the dark current has gone down, power the LED up. That is to say, start with a 100k resistor in series and a voltage of just a few volts and slowly increasing. You will see the line on your oscilloscope going up. That is the proof that the PMT works and is photo sensitive.
If the line is too noisy for you, place a small capacitor to ground at the input of your preamplifier. Value? ...... 100 pF ? If the noise is still too large for you, make it larger, 470 pF or 1 nF.
Klaas Robers wrote:Harry, running an LED from an adjustable voltage is not the way to do it. Much better is an adjustable current (mA or even more uA). That is easily obtained by circuiting a resistor in series with the LED. Then a potentiometer is an adjustable resistor, so you can go into all directions. The big advantage of a resistor is too that you may use a square wave generator that gives say 5 volts and use that with the adjustable resistor (potentiometer) in series to have a fast switching LED. You can see that on the oscilloscope.
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